Exfoliating Acids: AHAs, BHAs and What They Actually Do For Your Skin

Everyone seems to be using them, but not everyone understands what they actually do.
Here is a clear, practical explanation.

AHAs and BHAs: what is the difference?

Alpha hydroxy acids, also known as AHAs

These are water soluble acids that work mainly on the surface of the skin. They help dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more evenly.

Common AHAs include:
• Glycolic acid
• Lactic acid
• Mandelic acid

AHAs help improve brightness, texture and hydration. They are useful for dry, dull or sun damaged skin.

Beta hydroxy acid, which in skincare means salicylic acid

BHAs are oil soluble. This means they can move through sebum and reach deeper into the pores.

Salicylic acid can:
• Clear blocked pores
• Reduce congestion
• Calm inflammation
• Support acne prone and oily skin

Why AHAs create that fresh, glowing effect

Glycolic acid is the smallest AHA molecule. It penetrates efficiently and helps dissolve the outer layer of built up dead skin.

This leads to improvements in:
• Radiance
• Skin tone
• Long term collagen support
• Absorption of other skincare products

Why BHAs are considered essential for breakouts

Because salicylic acid can move through oil, it reaches the pore, dissolves debris and reduces inflammation. This is why it is a clinically supported option for:
• Blackheads
• Congestion
• Acne
• Enlarged looking pores

Can you combine exfoliating acids?

Yes, but only when it is done carefully and with a good understanding of your skin. AHAs and BHAs can be combined safely through:
• Alternating nights
• Buffered routines
• Professional chemical peels performed in clinic

What you should avoid is layering strong acids on top of each other every day. More acid does not mean better skin.

Who should avoid strong acids?

People with:
• A compromised skin barrier
• Active eczema or dermatitis
• Rosacea flare ups
• Recently treated or post procedure skin

should avoid strong AHAs or BHAs until they have been assessed.

Are they worth the hype? Yes, when used correctly

Exfoliating acids can brighten, clear, refine and smooth the skin. They are excellent tools, but they are not a shortcut and they do not suit everyone.

Skincare should feel balanced and supportive, not stripped or irritated.

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Written by Dr Brandon Kober-Brown MBBS, ProfDipMensHlth, GCCM

Registered Medical Practitioner (General Registration)MED0002581903