Glycolic acid is one of the most widely used and researched exfoliating acids in skincare. It is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugar cane and is known for its ability to refine texture, improve brightness and support long term skin quality. Unlike many trend ingredients, glycolic acid has decades of clinical data supporting its effects on cell turnover and collagen support.
Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size of all alpha hydroxy acids. This allows it to penetrate the skin more efficiently than lactic or mandelic acid.
Once inside the upper layers of the skin, it loosens the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more evenly. This process improves surface smoothness and encourages fresh cells to reach the surface.
With consistent use, glycolic acid can help improve:
• Dull or uneven skin tone
• Rough texture
• Fine lines caused by dehydration
• Pigmentation irregularities
• Congestion and clogged pores
• Absorption of other skincare products
Over time, regular controlled exfoliation also supports healthier collagen formation by encouraging consistent renewal.
Glycolic acid does more than exfoliate. Research shows that repeated controlled exfoliation stimulates fibroblast activity in the dermis. This can support increased collagen production over time, contributing to firmer and more resilient skin.
This is one reason glycolic acid is used in professional chemical peels as well as in at home skincare.
Frequency depends on strength, formulation and your skin type.
Lower concentration products can often be used one to three times per week. Higher strength peels should only be performed under professional supervision.
Using glycolic acid too frequently can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to irritation, redness and breakouts.
People with sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, a compromised skin barrier or recent procedures should be assessed before using glycolic acid. It is not suitable for everyone and must be introduced carefully.
Glycolic acid increases photosensitivity. This means daily sunscreen is essential when using it, even on cloudy days or when mostly indoors.
Glycolic acid is an effective, evidence based ingredient for improving texture, tone and overall skin quality. It is not a quick fix. When used correctly, it supports gradual, long term skin renewal and healthier collagen structure.
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Written by Dr Brandon Kober-Brown MBBS, ProfDipMensHlth, GCCM
Registered Medical Practitioner (General Registration) MED0002581903
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